Captain Kitty Cruises South
by Les Rothman, Autumn Saga,
NT37-054
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It had been about half a year since Captain
Kitty and her crew had returned from their five month
sojourn north to the Chesapeake Bay, during the summer
of 2005. Now, as the spring of 2006 arrived, she was contemplating
another cruise to a new destination. At the same time,
for a variety of reasons, neither she nor the crew was
desirous of another near half year away from their home
port. As it happened, a Nordic Tug rendezvous was scheduled
for the first part of April, at the Hawks Cay Marina on
Duck Key, in the Florida Keys. For the uninitiated, Duck
Key lies approximately ten miles northeast of Marathon
or half way, by sea, between Cocoanut Grove and Key West.
For Florida residents such as we, one beauty of cruising
the state’s near 800 mile coastline is the fact
that, from almost any place one might tie up, one can
drive to their terra firma home, in a rental car, in approximately
seven hours. The second is, of course, the relative comfort
of cruising in one’s home, if not clearly local,
waters. We decided to make this an easy, relaxed, non
rushed cruise. With the looming, predicted severe, hurricane
season fast approaching, we had loose plans to be home
no later than the end of June.
With reservations secured at Hawks Cay,
for April 5th through the 10th and rendezvous attendance
reservations confirmed, we provisioned Autumn Saga and
departed Cedar Point Marina, on the Ortega River, south
of downtown Jacksonville, at 1103, on Friday, March 24th.
As we were in no particular hurry, we stopped for fuel
and a holding tank pump out and, under a cloudy overcast
sky, with a temperature of 58 F. and a falling barometer,
made our first stop that night at the Conch House Marina
in St. Augustine. We have utilized this facility for twenty
years but Captain Kitty had never been there before
so, of course, she had to inspect everything and meet
everyone. After a forty-eight hour layover, during
which we enjoyed the familiar sights, sounds and food
of the city, we departed, on Sunday morning, at 0845,
on a half tide ebb and headed south, in perfect weather,
on the ICW. Our intention was to find an anchorage in
the Daytona area. Not finding anything to our liking and,
with the weather perfect and the waterway nearly empty,
we continued on our way until New Smyrna. We anchored,
at 1715, among moored sailboats just south of the Harris
Saxon Highway Bridge east of the waterway, near G43. At
this point, although still in familiar waters, we were
leaving home waters and felt we were truly on our planned
cruise. Now, with all secured, dinner completed and darkness
approaching and our vessel well lit, including the anchor
light, a very loud sounding vessel was heard. I went out
to see what was approaching and was startled to view a
large, power boat roaring toward us through the anchorage.
There appeared to be about six people on the bridge and
no one seemed to be paying attention. I had no time to
sound the horn and he roared past throwing a huge wake.
It looked as though he was going to smash into the sailboat
anchored about 100 yards off our bow, but apparently someone
alerted the helmsman and the vessel slowed significantly,
steered out of the anchorage, and departed north bound.
Louise speculated that they were running under autopilot
while partying. I speculated that their captain was brain
dead. Other than wind driven wave slap, there were no
other disturbances to our evening. The next morning, responding
to Captain Kitty’s “all hands” call,
we arose to breakfast, house keeping and a ship’s
systems check, as a prelude to our southbound departure,
at 0910. The NNW wind had diminished over night and another
perfect cool spring day was in store.
Looking for another anchorage, we tentatively
thought of going as far south as Melbourne , but when
we reached the Cocoa area and saw the excellent anchorage
on the western side of the waterway, just off Rockledge,
at G77, we elected to drop the hook and spend the night.
Secured at 1500, it turned out to be an excellent choice
for us. Wine on the aft deck, with Captain Kitty, was
followed by dinner with T.V. news. After reading, we went
to bed at 2150. At breakfast the next morning, having
anchored for two nights, we decided to visit one of our
favorite marinas in central Florida. We telephoned the
Vero Beach Municipal Marina and made reservations for
that evening. With our selves and vessel prepared for
the day, we weighed anchor and continued south under perfect
cruising conditions. Following a rather tense 7 St.M.
low water passage through a heavily shoaled ICW, just
north of the Wabasso Beach Bridge, we made the Vero Beach
Marina early in the afternoon, and secured at a bulkhead
at 1540. I washed Autumn Saga and Louise took a walk.
We showered, had dinner aboard, watched T.V. and went
to sleep. We lay over the next day, enjoying a late breakfast,
a long newspaper read, a leisurely ship check out and
a walk to the beach and the town center, followed by dinner
aboard and relaxation akin to being at home.
On Thursday morning, we got underway,
at 0845, our destination the anchorage at the northern
end of Lake Worth. Following an unremarkable passage,
when we reached the large relatively crowded anchorage,
a 15–20 knot east wind had developed. We found our
spot around mid tide and set the hook, at 1620, in 18
feet of water, with 50 feet of chain and an additional
30 feet of nylon rode. We were now back further than I’d
planned, but I decided all the surrounding vessels were
safe from us, if we swung. Our Delta anchor never has
dragged. We relaxed on the aft deck with Captain Kitty
until the setting sun made it too warn to remain. We then
retreated to the air conditioned salon and had dinner.
As the sky darkened, our urban environment was brightened
by man made light. I telephoned an acquaintance, not seen
in a year, that I had learned was secured at Cooley’s
Landing up the New River in Fort Lauderdale. I then phoned
that marina for reservations. The wind, which often lies
down after sun set, continued to blow from the east but
the ambient lighting permitted me to see, quite clearly,
that we had not moved from our original position. The
bow wave slap and occasional squeaks from the anchor pulpit
did not interfere with our slumber, although during the
early hours of the morning, when nature called, I did
check on deck and found all o.k. Friday morning dawned
bright and sunny with the east wind as strong as ever.
Additionally, a strong flood, from the SE, added to the
forces that made our rode taut. After breakfast and the
usual self and ship’s preparation, we made ready
to get under way before 0800, envisioning another reasonable
mileage, early arrival, cruising day. However, this was
not to be.
It is our usual custom that I manage
the anchor at the bow with Louise at the helm, maneuvering
Autumn Saga to my hand signals. Our Delta anchor has never
relinquished her grasp on the bottom easily. If one vigorously
rides over the anchor, the chain does damage to the bow
area hull. This date, she would not budge, regardless
of all our maneuvers, which had worked in the past. At
0930, I gave up the effort and laughed, exhaustedly, that
we were now set for the hurricane season. I considered
and then rejected calling Towboat/US. I telephoned another
vessel, I knew to be cruising north and with whom I had
anchored many times the previous year. His experience
anchoring far surpassed mine. He advised me to tie, with
a rolling hitch, both my port and starboard bow mooring
lines, to the anchor rode, as close to the water as possible,
slacken the rode significantly, above the tie off and
ride over the anchor. With the wind blowing strongly and
with my dinghy secured in its chocks on the upper deck,
I was loath to attempt a launch and risk having the dink,
with its O.B. motor, slam into Autumn Saga. As it happened,
the couple aboard the sailboat off our starboard bow had
been watching our vain efforts. They called to me, we
signaled to use the VHF and I told them my problem. Their
dinghy was in the water and he rowed over and joined us.
They were from England, had crossed the Atlantic and had
been cruising U.S. waters for some months. He had no better
plan than that which I had already secured. Now, as the
three of us contemplated the problem and the proffered
solution, another dinghy came by, carrying a Canadian
sailor, who also offered to help. He concurred with the
plan, stayed in his dink and tied off the chain rode with
rolling hitches. I let out significant rode from the windlass
to unload the anchor pulpit. With Louise at the helm,
we tried to power over the anchor but to very little effect.
However, the arrangement did, in fact, protect our bow
gel coat. With each push of our 370 h.p. Cummins, some
rode did rise and we shortened the bridle connected to
the bow cleats accordingly. The assistant, in his dinghy,
had a much better view of the anchor rode angle and directed
our powering efforts. After approximately 45 minutes,
the anchor did come free. Although there were signs that
it had been snagged on more than simply sand and shells,
I suspect that the continuous strong blow from the east,
reinforced by the flood tide, had buried it significantly,
too. And all the time, Captain Kitty, perched on the
chart flat, was issuing orders to both the helm and the
deck crew which, of course, were completely ignored.
So, exhausted but free once more, we said our thanks and
good byes, figured this was our pay back for all of the
times, over the many years, we had pulled sailboats off
groundings, and at 1034 headed south.
Now, entering the very congested waters
of southern Florida, and factoring in our two plus hour
delayed departure, I decided we’d opt for a marina
this coming evening, as we will miss the slack water time
advised to make a safe tie up at Cooley’s Landing.
A telephone call rearranged our Fort Lauderdale ETA. It
was Friday, however, and I did not know how far we’d
get this day. While choosing a marina and calling ahead
was most prudent, I thought I’d risk finding no
place to tie up verse choosing to call a place either
too close or too distant. As it turned out, we made it
as far as Lighthouse Point, called their marina and found
they had one spot for one night. We pulled in, purchased
fuel, tied up, at 1700, cleaned up, dressed and went out
for a relaxing dinner, at a good restaurant on the premises.
Now fully rejuvenated, we slept well.
At 0600, on Saturday morning, April
1st, Captain Kitty gave her wake up call by opening
Louise’s locker door, thus allowing light to fall
across our slumbering faces. We contemplated a short
run to Fort Lauderdale and up the New River to Cooley’s
Landing, the municipal marina, where we were, by previous
arrangement, to rendezvous with a cruising acquaintance,
another Nordic Tug owner who, we had learned, had broken
his wrist falling on the dock. Although having been in
Fort Lauderdale numerous times, over the past 40 years,
we had never been up the New River by boat. This is a
narrow waterway with huge yachts and strong ebb and flood
currents. We were heading for a slip that was 90 degrees
to the channel, thus the advice to enter at slack. The
Pilot gave slack at the Andrews Avenue Bridge, the nearest
point to our reserved slip, circa 1045. We left Lighthouse
Point Marina at 0847, figuring we’d make the New
River at 1100. Within one mile, we encountered our first
bridge delay. However, it was only 15 minutes waiting
time when we cleared the 14th Street Bridge and continued
south. The Atlantic Boulevard Bridge, one mile ahead,
was scheduled to open at 0930. We reached it at 0920 and
called the bridge tender. No response. Indeed, he did
not answer any one of the increasing number of vessels,
waiting on both sides of the span. The current was running
south. Quite fortunately, a deserted restaurant dock,
on the northwest side of the ICW, afforded us a way to
tie off a spring line and significantly reduced the required
effort in holding for the bridge. About 0950, the bridge
tender came on the air and announced that he would open
at 1000. We are now an hour latter than planned and we’d
only gone about three miles. Furious and planning to write
to the USCG, I was also concerned about safely entering
Cooley’s Landing. However, the rest of the cruise
was uneventful with light traffic and no more bridges
that we could not transit without opening.
Making Fort Lauderdale, we turned west
from the ICW and headed up the New River. Indeed, the
ebb had begun. This waterway was all new to us. We marveled
at the huge homes, most vacant at this time, the large
yachts we passed close aboard, without a scratch, as well
as the huge yachts that were underway, with a working
tug at both bow and stern, to get then safely through
the narrow winding passage. We cleared under the Andrews
Avenue Bridge, found our marina slip and, with the assistance
of other boaters standing by, including the one we’d
come to visit, made it unscathed, bow first, into our
slip, at 1130. We tied up, signed in and visited until
1340. Then we had lunch. Louise went walking and I cleaned
Autumn Saga inside and out. Louise returned. We visited
with our other dock mates and learned of the nearby restaurants,
museums and provisioning facilities all within easy walking
distance. Even a hospital ER, which had been utilized
by our friend, was within walking distance. Some of the
live aboard cruisers had been delaying their planned departures,
so attractive was this site.
Captain Kitty, of course, had to
meet and be introduced to all those nearby. Aboard the
46 foot sailing vessel just to our east was a couple with
a large dog. Much to the surprised amusement of those
watching, Captain Kitty and that canine made friends.
However, an orange cat, wandering some distance away,
was spied by the Captain and hisses were heard.
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Relaxing with the Captain
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We then both cleaned up and, with our
friend, walked to a restaurant, he had discovered during
his near month residence. We had a great dinner and enjoyed
a beautiful evening walking beside the New River back
to Cooley’s Landing. On Sunday morning, the first
day of “daylight saving time,” Louise went
food shopping with our friend; she could help him carry
some things his broken wrist would not permit. This was
to be a real R&R day for me. I read the paper, connected
to e-mail via the Wi-Fi marina connection and telephoned
an uncle and aunt, who live in the vicinity. They came
to visit arriving around 1300. Louise returned to Autumn
Saga around 1330 and we sat around and did family visiting
both inside the air conditioned cabin and out on the aft
deck, enjoying an unobstructed view of the weekend water
traffic. My family departed around 1530. As we were walking
to their car to see them off, we discovered a number of
police cars and a large crane truck near an adjacent boat
launch ramp. A man trying to retrieve his PWC had backed
down the slick ramp with his trailer and was unable to
exit. In fact, his entire rig had slid down the ramp into
the water and was completely submerged. He said that he
had had it only one week. Of course, his PWC had floated
free and was tied to the shore. As you might imagine,
a large number of people were gathered around to watch
the retrieval of his Jeep and trailer. It took some time
and required the services of a diver to attach the cables
from the crane to the submerged vehicles. After this was
accomplished, I was heading to the shower when I heard
the sounds of slipping tires and the shout of a male driver
asking for help. He wanted as many people as would to
get on his rear bumper and add weight and thus traction
so that he could drive up the ramp with his trailer. To
me this was obviously a very dangerous thing to do. One
slip of a foot or tire and those on the bumper would either
be under the back of the truck and run over or in the
water with the truck on top of them. I declined his pleas.
Three other men did jump on the rear bumper and the truck
was able to get up the ramp, albeit with roaring engine
and heavily smoking tires. We visited some more with our
friend, but then, as he liked to eat earlier than did
we, he went to his vessel and we had dinner alone aboard,
at our leisure. The beautiful weather continued into the
now darkening evening. We visited on the dock, watched
T.V. and finally retired to sleep.
On Monday morning, we said our good-byes,
slipped our lines at 0912 and headed down the relatively
quiet New River to an equally quiet ICW to continue south.
We had never been on this section of the ICW before and
thoroughly enjoyed the passing scene down to Miami. Although
viewed uncounted times from the shore, all took on a new
dimension from the water. We passed under the Julia Tuttle
Bridge at 1230 with the City of Miami skyline in our face.
As we approached the Venetian Causeway, whose listed clearance
was significantly less than our needed 14 feet, we noted
a few boats waiting on each side of the bridge. We radioed
the bridge tender indicating our need for an opening and
that we’d follow the boat ahead of us who was waiting
for a large north bound yacht. The large yacht cleared
and as we proceeded to follow the boat ahead of us, the
bridge started to come down. I gunned the engine and called
to the bridge tender on VHF but received no reply. We
very soon arrived at Government Cut. As this was all new
cruising territory for us and as I’d been out Government
Cut and down Hawk Channel to Key West some years before,
on a charter, we elected to take the inside, ICW, route
south. At 1317, on Biscayne Bay, we decided to head for
the anchorage off Dinner Key. After cruising through the
marina, just to look around, we found what appeared to
be an ideal spot and dropped the hook in 10.5 feet, one
hour past high water, at 1415. NOAA Wx predicted wind
south at 5 knots for the next 24 hours. Lou made lunch
for Captain Kitty and us. We decided against taking down
the dinghy and just relaxed aboard to the sound of Jimmy
Buffett, on the stereo. We telephoned my sister in law,
just to say hello. We also called my older son for the
same reason. Louise was sewing on the aft deck and I was
just “messing around.” Snacks and drinks were
followed eventually by dinner. Finally, we watched the
national championship basket ball game between U.F &
U.C.L.A. The Gators won to end a near perfect day, for
us and we went to sleep at 2350.
It’s now Tuesday morning, April
4th and we both arise at 0650. With the morning routine
completed, we weigh anchor at 0845 to continue south on
Biscayne Bay. We reach Card Sound and cross under the
Card Sound Bridge at 1240 to enter Barnes Sound. We made
Jew Fish Creek Bridge at 1340. I do want to here note
that the woman bridge tender at the Jew Fish Creek Bridge
was far and away the friendliest and cooperative we’d
met on this entire cruise among the many proficient and
the few who should be fired.
Now cruising in Blackwater Sound, we
scan the chart for an anchorage and find Tarpon Basin,
which appears to have near 360 degrees wind protection.
We turn to starboard at R48A and are secured at anchor,
in 9.3 feet, at 1430. Around 1500, a couple, in a small
power cat, cruised over to ask about Autumn Saga. The
woman was Swedish, her husband U.S. and they wondered
about the “Nordic” in Nordic Tug. We invited
them aboard and visited for over an hour. We then had
dinner accompanied by NBC TV World News and watched, from
the aft deck, the evening turn into a glorious star studded
night. At 2055, we retired to read and sleep.
It was still dark when I got to the
pilot house at 0606. All was quiet save for the gentle
hull slapping water. I fed Captain Kitty, opened some
windows and removed some covers. Dawn came about 0640
and I turned off the anchor light. Louise still slept.
Captain Kitty and I waited. It’s now 0710, Wednesday,
in a full daylight, pre sunrise, and cloudless sky. This
is the date we made reservations to arrive at Hawks Cay
Resort on the ocean side of Duck Key. When I hear Louise
talking with Captain Kitty, I start the generator and
the coffee, just as the upper limb of the sun appears
over the tree tops to the east. With breakfast, personal
care and ships systems checked, we leave this anchorage
at 0905. We cross Florida Bay from Bowlegs Cut to the
Channel Five Bridge and enter Hawk Channel at 1245. At
R44, approximately 8 Nm SW lay our destination. Radio
contact with the dock master had us hold off shore for
30 minutes so that they could position their limited dock
hands to assist each vessel entering slips being swept,
at that time, by strong beam currents. When so instructed,
we entered the very long idle speed channel and reached
our assigned berth, in the shallow basin, securing at
1435. This is the first of four scheduled lay days.
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We were certainly one of the early but
not the first to arrive at this year’s SENTOA Rendezvous.
Our first contact was with Mini and George on MUGGINS,
a new 42 N.T. A short time later, while washing AUTUMN
SAGA, TRANQUILITY TUG came in with Jack Nostrand in command.
He waved and a short time later walked over to visit.
I finished the washing, had a drink, took a shower and
then we had dinner aboard. Around 2030, I took a walk
around the marina to see its offerings, bought some ice
cream, and returned, with it, to Saga. Thinking about
cruising around Key West and possibly to Fort Jefferson
before returning to Florida’s east coast via the
Okeechobee Waterway, following the rendezvous, I looked
at the needed charts and determined that it was an easily
doable. After some T.V. watching, I joined Louise in sleep.
Thursday proved to be another beautiful
day and beautiful weather was predicted for the next four
days. As the formal proceedings were to begin on Friday
evening, this was a time for informal socializing and
general R & R. During the formal rendezvous meetings,
the membership was entertained and educated by the infomercials
presented by the many commercial enterprises that come
together to produce Nordic Tugs and who contribute significant
financial support to the annual SENTOA rendezvous. The
final meeting on Sunday morning was devoted to organizational
business, during which time, the financial status of SENTOA
was reviewed, answers to questions from the membership
were presented, officers for the coming year were chosen
and suggestions as to the location for the 2007 rendezvous
considered.
In spite of the above noted weather
prediction, Monday, April 10th, our planned date of departure,
saw the weather continue to deteriorate. The very heavy
over night rain fall had abated by 0706 but the sky continued
mostly cloudy. The NOAA Wx radio forecast called for NE
winds 15 to 20 knots, along with scattered thunderstorms,
for the next five days. Our on board barometer continued
its five day downward trend and currently stood at 29.76,
with a temperature of 72 degrees F and relative humidity
of 70%, significantly different from the weather enjoyed
on our out bound leg.
Anticipating this possibility, we had
already decided to change our original plan of continuing
south around Key West, taking a detour to the Dry Tortugas
and crossing the peninsular via the Okeechobee waterway.
Instead, we would return north, retracing our original
route, avoiding the alternative Hawk Channel, as seas
were reported to be 8 – 12 feet, inside the reef.
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Jim Cress' Nordic Tug 52 Big
Fun
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During the course of the rendezvous,
we made the acquaintance of a couple from New Orleans,
brand new to boating and new owners of a brand new, albeit
one year old, 37’ Nordic Tug, they had named NeverMore.
They had picked up their vessel from the dealer in Fort
Lauderdale, where it had languished, unsold, at a marina,
for about a year. Admittedly, they had done all of their
home work on personal preparation, having chartered, a
few months earlier, a trawler yacht, with a captain, for
a week of instruction. They also were well versed. via
personal study, on the rules of the road and inland navigation.
Since the dealer was coming to the rendezvous on his own
52’ Nordic Tug, they apparently believed that they
could follow him from Fort Lauderdale south to Duck Key.
I presume that they also believed that, since they were
buying a brand new boat, they would encounter no difficulties
mechanically. Unfortunately, before they ever left Fort
Lauderdale, the captain instructor they had had on the
month’s earlier charter, did significant cosmetic
damage to their new boat and then abandoned them. Already
traumatized, they followed the dealer, on his much larger
N.T., out government cut to Hawk Channel and turned south.
As they related the tale, they were unable to keep up
with the 52 N.T. and soon were on their own, in rather
choppy seas. They experienced repeated engine failures,
due to contaminated fuel, and were eventually towed into
Hawks Cay after dark, on Friday evening, missing the initial
gathering of the rendezvous participants. When I first
met them on Saturday, they were in surprisingly good humor
considering that they most likely had felt abandoned,
as well as frightened, during the voyage. To emphasize
their newness to boating, they did not even have a filter
wrench on board to change a filter, if they had had one.
I must say that a large number of us in attendance, who
learned of their experience, were rather appalled, at
the treatment they had received at the hands of so called
professionals.
Thus, with our changed plans, we offered
to shepherd these new tug owners north. They wanted to
return their boat to Fort Lauderdale, for the necessary
cosmetic repairs. Additionally, as they had had, as a
“gift” from the selling dealer, a fuel polishing
system now installed, no more fuel issues were anticipated.
Regardless, the previous traumatic maiden voyage’s
effects were still present and the developing weather
front was not to be trifled with. Thus, they accepted
our offer. After fueling the vessels and pumping the holding
tanks, we slipped our mooring lines and left Duck Key
at 1120. Turning north on Hawk Channel, we passed under
the Channel Five Bridge at 1253 and into Florida Bay to
pick up the ICW northbound. After running for two hours
into head seas that, not infrequently, sent green water
over our pilot house, our calls to marinas found all either
full or too shallow for us to enter. We thus made for
Tarpon Basin once again. Six vessels, two much larger
than our own, were already at anchor. The sky was filled
with black clouds and the thunder was coming more frequently,
as we entered the basin, at 1630, followed by NeverMore.
We were secured at 1645, and NeverMore anchored about
300 yards to our SE. A strong NE wind and a light steady
rain were our companions. We agreed on a working channel
and kept our VHFs on so that they could call any time
if needed. Checking around Autumn Saga, I discovered a
12 foot length of black polypropylene that, viewed from
the swim platform, was trailing from our rudder. Whether
it was the strong wind driven current or some other unknown
factor, I was unable to free it from above. At 1815, I
started the generator. Louise served dinner at 1840. At
1900, Louise donned her snorkeling gear and decided to
go under the swim platform to free the snag. I roped her
torso to the boat and she went over the stern and was
able, within ten minutes, to cut it away. All the pieces
of the line were brought on board. Then I hauled Louise
back on board. The line resembled that used by crab trap
fisherman. How long I had been pulling it, I could not
guess. NeverMore called to say that their generator was
not discharging any cooling water. He had no spare impeller
and, after checking everything I could think of to fix
the problem, it was deemed further exploration, such as
diving under the boat, was neither safe nor doable under
the prevailing conditions. It’s 1930 and raining
seriously. As far as I could discern, the anchor was holding
solidly. By 2000, we were all cleaned up, as the darkening
sky engulfed all of the anchored vessels. The wind had
eased and the rain was now intermittent. NeverMore and
I decided to leave the radios on all night but otherwise
signed off and we went to sleep at 2130.
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After a couple of nighttime arousals
to check the situation, I finally arose at 0650. A heavy
gray overcast with near black clouds still dropped rain.
The temperature was 70 degrees, the humidity 76% and the
barometer still falling. While Louise continued to sleep,
Captain Kitty kept me company, as I did my morning
engine room survey. The heavy cloud cover, concentrated
in the NE, began to break up to the SW, and some blue
sky was now visible. When Louise joined us at 0720, we
began our morning routine. With breakfast and personal
grooming completed, I telephoned the Dinner Key marina
at Cocoanut Grove and reserved two slips for the evening.
I then called NeverMore with the news and twenty minutes
latter, we left Tarpon Basin in tandem at 0935. Northbound,
with intermittent rain and seas up to four feet, after
clearing Jewfish Creek Bridge, the sky became partly cloudy
with bright sunshine. We entered Biscayne Bay and faced
whitecaps and nearly constant green water over the bow,
dousing our windows and frequently passing over the pilot
house top. NeverMore, trailing us, later said that more
often than not we “disappeared” from view.
With both vessels performing flawlessly, we made the Dinner
Key marina and secured in adjacent slips at 1445. Much
to our happy surprise, we encountered Almar directly across
from us, Al and Marlene Casanova had arrived the previous
day and Al had decided to lie over until the weather cleared.
His wife rented a car and drove home. I washed Autumn
Saga, showered and visited on the dock. Al declined our
invitation, so the crew from NeverMore and ourselves wandered
around the streets adjacent to the marina, finally settling
on the third restaurant we encountered. From our shore
side table, it was moonlight over Miami. We returned to
our respective vessels, at 2140, thanked the NeverMore
crew for the dinner treat and retired to a much welcome
sleep.
Wednesday, April 12th was planned as
a lay day to further explore Coconut Grove and relax.
In the evening, Al joined us on our vessel and all contributed
to a great “pot luck” meal. On Thursday, the
wind continued to roil the water, while on land it was
making the bright south Florida sunshine quite pleasant.
Another day to sight see was followed by another great
dinner for five, this time at a Cuban restaurant. We were
all agreed to try and depart on the morrow by 0800, if
Al’s prediction of favorable weather bore true.
Friday, April 14th, saw our feet on
the deck by 0550 and breakfast, personal hygiene, house
keeping and ship system checks were completed by 0700.
All three vessels made ready to depart, checked out with
the dock master, slipped lines at 0740, and following
in the wake of Almar and NeverMore, we headed out the
Dinner Key channel to the ICW and turned north. With the
weather considerably more settled and with little traffic,
with which to contend, this was a comfortable passage,
which, I suspect was most appreciated by NeverMore’s
crew. We cleared the Rickenbacker Causeway at 0813, admiring
the Miami skyline lit by the sunrise. We cleared the Broad
Street Causeway at 0935, all the while enjoying the beautiful
calm waters of Biscayne Bay. This totally unremarkable
cruise had us clear the 17th Street Causeway in Fort Lauderdale
at 1135. NeverMore turned west up the New River and Almar
and Autumn Saga continued northbound. We passed Lighthouse
Point at 1335 and, at Almar’s suggestion, anchored
in Lake Boca Raton at 1500, with Almar rafted along our
port side. The single handing captain of Almar joined
Louise and Captain Kitty and me on Autumn Saga where we
visited over wine and snacks. We then took a few hours
of personal time and rejoined, circa 1900, for a superb,
team prepared, dinner, perhaps enhanced by the convivial
conversation enjoyed by all. We repaired to our own bunks
around 2100 and to sleep by 2200.
Saturday morning, April 15th, saw me
on deck at 0650. Al C. was already moving about on his
vessel. I started the generator and as his was not functioning;
I passed his power cord to one of our outlets, so that
he could cook his breakfast. Almar departed at 0755 and
we weighed anchor and followed in his wake about an hour
and fifteen minutes later. In spite of the intermittent
pockets of wild and crazy small craft activity on this
beautiful day, all was smooth motoring. We were on the
lookout for a south bound sailing craft we had reason
to believe we would meet, but had been unable to raise
on either VHF or mobile telephone. Totally unexpectedly,
just south of the Jupiter Inlet, at 1500, we passed said
vessel, but they did not acknowledge our hail. Al C. had
suggested we could locate good anchorage in Hobe Sound.
At 1545, just NW of R40, we were secured in nine feet
of water. We brought out drinks and snacks and watched
the world go by from our aft deck. I telephoned Vero Beach
Municipal Marina and secured a reservation for tomorrow
afternoon. After dinner, Captain Kitty and I sat out
again in the gathering darkness to watch the stars twinkle.
Then we all went to sleep at 2130 and I hoped for an earlier
than usual start in the morning.
I began Easter Sunday, April 16th, at
0553 with my companion, Captain Kitty. Louise, somewhat
reluctantly, I believe, soon joined us. We finished all
of our usual morning activities and weighed anchor at
0749, destination Vero Beach. With a temperature of 67
degrees and a humidity of 66%, we were underway under
clear blue skies with light and variable winds. In spite
of a falling barometer, this weather continued for the
duration and we were tied up at the Vero Municipal Marina
fuel dock at 1322. After fueling and pumping the holding
tank, the wind and current hindered a smooth departure
to our slip. I wanted to warp off. Foolishly, instead
of having Louise manage the lines, I accepted the insistent
offer of one of the dock hands who insisted he knew what
to do. Nevertheless, I gave him explicit instructions,
which he did not follow and we just managed to escape
without damage.
Dock hand incompetence is so ubiquitous,
you’d think I’d learn to reject any offers
of dock hand aid. Secured in our slip, I washed the boat,
completed other routine chores and showered, in preparation
for dinner aboard, accompanied by T.V. news. Unlike many
cruisers, who anchor out for weeks, or longer, at a stretch,
a marina berth leads me to feel refreshed, relaxed and
“civilized,” with all of the comforts of home,
without the background sound of the generator and thoughts
of a potentially dragging anchor .
This Monday began weather wise, as beautiful
as yesterday’s had ended, save for the fact that
the barometer‘s continuing descent was accompanied
by increasing wind velocity, now fairly steadily out of
the west. In no particular hurry this morning, we leisurely
completed our chores and telephoned a fellow tugger, Jack
Nostrand, who lives in Eau Galle. We were invited to stop
at his dock for a visit. We departed this familiar facility
at 1048 and a moment’s inattention had us promptly
aground.
In spite of this idle speed grounding,
we were unable to extricate ourselves, as the ebb held
us fast against the oyster bed. A call to TowBoat/US had
us free and underway at noon. With my attentiveness now
prodded back to an appropriate level, we made an unremarkable
passage, reaching Dragon Point at 1615. We turned east
and were promptly informed by the Mathers Bridge tender
that he could not open for 24 hours. Another call to our
expectant host suggested that we proceed to an adjacent
marina fuel dock where he would meet us with his car.
They did not answer our VHF hail and, as we stood off
about 25 yards, we drifted aground in soft mud. Why a
commercial facility, presumably in business to service
customers, would allow their fuel dock to be blocked by
a mud bar is inexplicable to me. Needless to say, I’d
had enough of this nonsense for one day. I had Louise
call our potential host, advise him of the situation and
tell him we were leaving and would meet again in the near
future. We continued north on the ICW for about ten miles
and anchored just off the waterway east of Rockledge.
The west wind was now blowing at 15 knots and NOAA Wx
radio indicated that we could expect a shift to the SW
with gusts over night of 20 to 25 knots. We observed another
Nordic Tug, among the many anchored vessels and spoke
to them by radio. They had come south from Missouri and
were heading north in what sounded like a great loop cruise.
We then secured in 10 feet of water. I had out my Delta
on 50 feet of chain followed by 30 feet by nylon rode.
Although closer than I like to the sailing vessel off
my port quarter, he and I agreed that it looked safe enough
and that we’d keep our radios on over night. I added
some fenders to my port quarter and made other contingency
plans. We had dinner aboard at 1845, during which time
I happened to over hear on the radio, a Krogen 42 named
Dawn Treader, with which I was well acquainted, talking
to a marina, at Port Canaveral, no more than 20 miles
distant. After dinner, I reached said vessel by telephone
and we agreed to rendezvous the next day, underway, as
we were both heading north. They had come in from the
Atlantic having endured a brutal crossing from the Bahamas,
during the weather system we’d negotiated in land.
I slept reasonably well although I did arise at 0220 to
check the situation on deck. Indeed, the wind had backed,
as predicted, but had also diminished, perhaps because
of our proximity to land. Additionally, the sailboat of
concern, had swung with us and it was now clear that we
would not collide. I returned to bed.
At 0620, Captain Kitty and I viewed
the predawn sky from the salon. Louise soon joined
us. We completed the morning routine and weighed anchor
at 0830. As we left the anchorage, I contacted Dawn Treader;
I did so again at 0935 when I estimated that they were
about _ Nm ahead. Just south of the Titusville Bridge,
among four other vessels, we caught Dawn Treader. Their
destination, for the evening, was Halifax Harbor Marina
in Daytona Beach. We called that marina for reservations
for ourselves and fell in behind Dawn Treader, to follow
in their wake at their leisurely, full displacement, pace.
An unremarkable passage into ever increasingly familiar
waters is welcomed by both vessels. We made the marina
at 1625 and were secured in our berth at 1640. Quite by
happenstance, we spoke with another Nordic Tug owner acquaintance
that lives in the area. We then cleaned up and welcomed
aboard, for cocktails, the captain and mate from Dawn
Treader. Being cat owners themselves, they were happy
to make the acquaintance of our very sociable Captain
Kitty. Four of us then went to dinner at the marina
restaurant to share our lives’ adventurers since
our last meeting. The very good meal with pleasant company
ended at 2145, as we wanted to get underway early and
they had an early flight home to Georgia.
It is now Wednesday, April 19th. My
rest was interrupted at 0230 by Louise, who reported a
total power failure in the marina. I arose to switch the
refrigerator to battery power, but then both of us had
difficulty returning to slumber. Eventually, I invited
Captain Kitty to find another place for her body away
from our feet. This helped Louise but I don’t
believe I ever fully returned to sleep. At 0630, I was
feeding the Captain in the salon. Day broke with calm
wind, a cloud free sky, and a temperature of 70 degrees
and a relative humidity of 72%. When Louise finally arose,
we “forgot” the previous evening’s decision
and unhurriedly completed the morning’s routine,
finally clearing out of the Halifax Harbor Marina at 1043.
Now north bound once again on the ICW, we were in home
waters and the familiar land marks passed like clock work.
At one point, we passed and spoke with the sailboat, near
which we had anchored at Rockledge, two nights previous.
He was in totally new waters and, to his questions, I
was able to give him some local knowledge about facilities
and hazards he might encounter. As we neared the southern
extremities of St. Augustine, at maximum ebb, I called
the Conch House Marina, our destination, to advise them
of our ETA. I also discussed making a safe landing at
their fuel dock and waiting about two hours before entering
our slip nearer to slack. This was agreed upon and we
tied up at 1650. We had dinner aboard and then moved to
our slip. Owned by us since 1968, we had not personally
entered it for about 10 years as it is usually rented
to long term tenants, while we are out cruising, or berthed
in other facilities.
After being underway for about a month,
it was good to settle in for a stay in one place, we know
so well. We plan to be here until some time in June, when
we will return to our current marina on the Ortega River
which, not incidentally, is a very good hurricane hole.
The next morning, I called Hertz, secured a car, and we
packed up and left Autumn Saga at noon, to go home, with
Captain Kitty.
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